In Seattle for the Holidays...

Greetings from Seattle! After a long plane ride (made all the more pleasant by my travel buddy L.) and two nearly-missed connections in Amsterdam and Minneapolis I finally met my dad and brother at the airport. The first thing we did was meet my stepmom at the Greenlake Grill where I ordered my first real cheeseburger in over 6 months. It was glorious! I told my mom the other day that while I'm happy to see everyone back home, one of the most exciting reasons for me to visit was the food. I'm half-joking, maybe. So far I haven't seen too many of my friends but I have been catching up a lot with my mom and brother, which is good. Yesterday my mom and I drove two hours north to see her sister in Bellingham, a familiar road trip that brought back a lot of memories. Sometimes coming home can be hard because of how people and places change in ways that are beyond our control, but I'm staying positive and just enjoying the time I have here as much as I can. It's weird to think that tomorrow night is Christmas Eve already. So many people to see! I hope that everyone reading has a fun, safe holiday spent with loved ones. Merry Christmas! 

Лешникотрошачката

Last night I went with some friends to see The Nutcracker at the Sofia Opera House. We got the idea to go a couple of weeks ago but I didn't actually buy the tickets until Thursday, when they were nearly sold out. Luckily I was able to find three seats together (last row to the left on the first balcony) and the tickets were only 12 leva, or about 8 dollars each. It was raining pretty hard outside and we were running late because I can never seem to go anywhere on time, but we found our seats in time for the opening scene. I hadn't seen The Nutcracker since I was a little girl when my grandma used to take me every year at the Pacific Northwest Ballet. My favorite part about that production was always the visual aspect. Their costumes and sets are designed by Maurice Sendak, one of my favorite authors as a child. So in my memory of the ballet, there was a specific artistic direction and style because of how unique that production was. It was interesting to compare the two. I think that the one in Sofia was more traditional in the sense that the costumes were simpler and the focus was more on the dancing and orchestra (both of which were excellent). I really enjoyed hearing the songs that remind me so much of my childhood and seeing the beautiful interior of the Opera House.

After the ballet we went for a pizza at my new favorite restaurant, Leo's. It's authentic Rome-style pizza, cooked in a wood fire oven, and the prices are reasonable. I've already been there at least three times. Later on we went out for drinks and dancing at a club in the center. I don't usually go out to clubs in Sofia but it was a lot of fun. They played all "retro hits," mostly from the early 90's, and a bunch of other friends came out to say goodbye before Laura and I head back to the States for a couple of weeks. I'll miss my Sofia friends but I'm definitely excited see the family and just take some time to relax in Seattle. I'm going to try to meet up with as many friends as I can, too. It's hard to say when we'll see each other next because everyone is doing so many different things and we're never all in the same place. Right now I've got less than twelve hours before my flight leaves and I'm only halfway packed, so I'd better go finish that...

Happy First Day of Snow!

Well, almost the first day of snow. If you recall, it did snow for about an hour way back in October, but this afternoon it started snowing in earnest, enough to actually cover the ground, so I am declaring this the official first day of snow in Sofia.

Today brings back sometimes funny but mostly embarrassing memories from last year when I fell down on my butt not once, not twice, but three times in the snow. This year I feel more prepared: I've got my ugly snow boots for very cold days, nice sturdy knee-high leather boots and a new pair of "authentic Bulgarian leather" booties with a warm fuzzy lining. I also picked up a long winter coat from a charity second-hand shop (for five dollars!) and a puffy marshmallow coat with a fake fur collar. Although I can't say I really enjoy trudging slowly across wet pavements in winter for fear that I'll injure myself, I do like dressing up in winter clothes (hats, mittens, scarves, thick socks... I even bought a pair of leg-warmers!). I also like staying in bed with the radiator on, drinking lots and lots of tea and watching the snow fall outside my window.

Another reason to look forward to winter: I'm going back to Seattle for the holidays in about ten days. I am very, very excited to see my family and friends for a little while. After missing out last year, I am feeling a lot of nostalgia for the Christmases of my childhood. I'm even listening to Christmas music voluntarily! When I worked at Starbucks I used to start hating it after the first week or two of non-stop Christmas tunes. But today in my classes I did a lesson on holiday songs that ended in the whole class enthusiastically singing the chorus to "Jingle Bells." So I am definitely getting into the holiday spirit. I hope that you are, too! 

Azis: a cultural icon?

If you've been to Bulgaria or I have ever subjected you to the Youtube videos, you know who Azis is. For those of you who don't, he is probably the most controversial celebrity in Bulgaria today. Why? It might have something to do with his background- he is Roma and identifies as either gay or bisexual, something which seems to change depending on his mood. In Bulgaria, as in all European countries with a Roma minority, there is a heavy amount of institutionalized prejudice against Roma for reasons I won't get into here. Because of this, Azis experiences double (or even triple) prejudice as a result of his identity as Roma, queer and a leading figure in Bulgarian pop-folk music, commonly referred to as chalga. 

Pop-folk, as its fans prefer to call it, is a fascinating combination of folk music, techno, pop and oriental tunes represented in every Balkan country. A lot of the most popular Bulgarian pop-folk songs are, apparently, translations of Greek, Serbian or Romanian hits. Pop-folk originated in the early transitional years, after the so-called collapse of socialism, and has its own subculture characterized by grandiose displays of wealth, scantily-clad female dancers and lewd, bawdy lyrics. For example: "Oh little millionaire, you've got money, you walk on women... give out your money, give it to everyone, little millionaire." Recently I went to one of the famous chalga clubs in Sofia to see Azis perform live, and my expectations were pretty high. If you've seen one of his videos, you'll understand. As you can see in the photo above, his entrance was impressive: dressed in full-length white angel wings, high heels and a tight, revealing bathing suit (?). But his performance went downhill from there. Most of the time he was sitting on a couch onstage, occasionally belting out a few lines with another singer. The best part of the experience was definitely the crowd-watching, but I was pretty disappointed overall. Maybe my standards were set too high (I was expecting the Bulgarian version of Cher or Lady Gaga) or Azis has just gotten lazy lately. And you can hardly blame him.

Soon after this under-whelming show, Azis announced publicly that he will be leaving Bulgaria for good, off to an unspecified location. He cited the lack of respect for his talent and the growing level of homophobia as reasons for his departure. Read more here. I'm not sure how much of this is a publicity stunt, and despite his international following I can hardly imagine him gaining enough popularity abroad to support himself. Although Perez Hilton is a big fan, he doesn't seem to be up-to-date on these recent developments, or Azis' newest video, which may be the most provocative one yet. You really have to just watch it, but it includes a naked sauna scene (the tub he's sitting in has "Russia" written across the front) in which his genitalia are "censored" by a small hammer and sickle symbol. What this has to do with the lyrics, I'm not sure... but I think this is part of his enigmatic public persona. Most Bulgarians either love or hate him (and I think we can safely assume there are more haters at this point) and my friends here are usually shocked to learn that I like him, or listen to his music.

For the record, I'm not a big chalga fan. I think that the rhythm is too fast-paced and gives me a headache. But Azis is always a good conversation-starter, because of his attitude towards traditional gender roles and social norms in Bulgaria. And I think that this is as good an argument as any for his status as a "cultural icon."

German Christmas Market!

Today was the official opening of the new German Christmas Market in Sofia. It's a traditional wooden-hut affair, with lots of stalls selling bratwurst, pretzels, goulash, mulled wine, punch and all kinds of sweets. There are also Christmas decorations and other souvenirs for sale, such as hand-carved wooden nutcrackers. I went with a few friends in the afternoon and we stayed, keeping ourselves warm with glasses of mulled wine, until our feet had frozen and it was time to go. A friend of ours who works for a German company was helping to organize the event, and they did a spectacular job. Every day from now until December 22 it will be open, and there will be live music, puppet shows for children, and even special appearances made by Santa Claus. I think the market looks great in the evening, too, with all of the Christmas lights decorating the place. It's located in the square across from Sofia University and, as you can see in the photo, it's right behind Alexander Nevsky Cathedral as well. If you're in Sofia, you should definitely check it out!

Thanksgiving quotes

On Thursday during my Thanksgiving-themed lessons, I asked students at the First English Language High School in Sofia what they were thankful for. Some of their answers were predictable for teenagers, but others were surprisingly sweet and thoughtful. There were also a couple of really funny ones. Here are the “top ten” responses from my eighth grade classes:

1. “My TV, because it actually helped me learn English.”

 2. “My telephone, because I can’t live without it and if I haven’t got a phone I couldn’t talk with many people.”

3. “For my computer, because it helps me cheat on my homework.”

4. “Steve Jobs for everything he did and gives to the earth. RIP.”

 5. “The music, because I wouldn’t exist without my piano and my guitar.”

6. “For my education because when I grow up I will have a very good job.”

7. “I’m thankful for being in this school because I met some great new people and I worked really hard to get here.”

8. “All the reasons there are to smile.”

9. “My grandmother, because she is the strongest person I know.”

10. “For Sophia, because she taught me how to draw a turkey.” (This last one is real, I promise!)

My Thanksgiving was spent with lots of American, Bulgarian and European friends at an embassy event where we had some delicious holiday food, including pumpkin pie, which I have been thinking about for the last several weeks. I even took part in a mini-football game and was told by our host that one highlight of the afternoon was when I stepped outside in my dress and heels to play. Full disclosure: we only tossed the ball around for about twenty minutes because it was too cold to play for a long time. Even though I didn’t get to spend it at home (again) I still had a pretty great time on Thanksgiving. The rest of the weekend I hung out with friends in town for the event, and later on today we’re going to check out the German Christmas market that just opened. So far, a great start to the holiday season! 

Settled-ish

Yesterday something wonderful happened: my landlord delivered a nice, big couch with a hide-away bed to my apartment. This was after weeks of waiting for a convenient time to bring it over. I finally had to ask more insistently because I promised some friends that they could stay with me, and I feel bad making people sleep on the floor. To my surprise, I came home from school yesterday and there it was! It's a huge corner piece and definitely adds a lot of warmth and comfort to my living room. Looking around my new apartment at all of the tangible objects (mostly framed photos of family and friends, posters, postcards and tons of books) that have somehow come to represent my life, I feel a little more at home, like this situation is less temporary than it probably is. I just realized that I haven't lived in one place for more than nine months continuously since 2006. But who knows? Maybe I'll still be living here in a year or two. I like it a lot and feel very much at ease in my quiet little apartment by the park, in this city with which I share a name. I don't really have time to be bored, which can be both stressful and exhilarating. I make time to see friends often and I enjoy my routine, even the daily metro ride to work. One of my colleagues asked me yesterday if I'll actually want to come back to Sofia after going to Seattle for the holidays, and I can say that I definitely will, because I am happy here and this is my home. But I don't think I'm ready to settle down in one place permanently yet. At least now I can have as many visitors as I like to share this experience with. So, in the spirit of Thanksgiving, I guess that more than anything else this year I am thankful for my new couch and the great opportunity I have been given here.

What are you thankful for?    

Thanksgiving jokes

Since I am the only American teacher at school, I have been talking about Thanksgiving a lot lately. So much so that I almost can't wait for it to finally be over, already! But it has also reminded me how much I like this holiday. I love the food, good company, being thoughtful and thankful. This year, like last year, I'll be celebrating the holiday with other Fulbrighters in Sofia. But this time we are attending a big reception at the Deputy Chief of Mission's house, so it will be more of a formal embassy event. I have a few friends coming into town to stay with me, and we will get together with some of my other new friends in Sofia after the dinner. Every Thursday there is a cocktail party at a Spanish bar with lots of expats and Bulgarians, and we will probably head there later. Much to my own amusement, I have become a "regular" at this bar (having gone to this expat party 3 or 4 times now), to the extent that when making plans with friends they often say "I'll just see you on Thursday night, anyway." I don't think it's necessarily a bad thing, though, and I usually meet some interesting people there.

Anyway, to get back to Thanksgiving, I've learned a couple of funny things from talking about the holiday with my students this week. One is that gravy, when you describe how it's made, actually sounds pretty disgusting. One girl exclaimed "Yuck! I can't believe I ate that!" although I've only ever seen it at KFC here. Another is that the Bulgarian word for turkey, or puika, has another meaning: a person who is flashy, pompous and smug (the male form would be puiak). But that doesn't account for the highly suspicious level of snickering in one of my tenth grade classes. My friend K. has a theory that they might have been substituting one letter to make it into another word, which is much nastier. And I think he might be right. Oh, teenagers... And my favorite thing that I learned is about the Bulgarian version of pumpkin pie, which is more of a flaky pastry filled with pumpkin and sugar, called tikvenik. If you call someone a tikvenik, you are calling them an idiot. Kind of like saying "you pumpkin-head!" but sounding less like a character from Peanuts.

 

Market time

My friend E. and I went to the Women's Market (Zhenski Pazar) in Sofia on Sunday to buy veggies and herbs. It was wonderful. I love going to the market, and how cheap it is! For example, I bought a kilo of pumpkin (I'm too lazy to cut it up on my own) along with some onions, chili peppers, beets and lots of fruit for a grand total of five leva, which is about $3.50. Across the street from the market we found a shop that sells all sorts of tea, coffee and spices AND a Turkish shop that has lots of amazing imported stuff like hummus, basmati rice and Turkish delights. I spent a little more money there than I did at the market, but it was totally worth it. Apparently there is also a Russian grocery nearby where you can find Polish-style pierogi! And, if I can find it one day, I'll visit the Polish grocery in Sofia, too. Don't get me wrong, I love Bulgarian food. And Zhenski Pazar is one of the places where I love to go because I can find fresh local produce and even special things like home-made honey. But it's always good to have a little variety, and it's nice to know that there are so many places to find something different. Next week is Thanksgiving, and to continue our tradition from last year, there will be a party with all the American Fulbrighters who want to join here in Sofia. My friend L promised to bring cranberry sauce and she's even baking a pumpkin pie! Now how's that for "exotic" cuisine? 

Hot beer, gingerbread and unlikely encounters

More on my recent trip to Poland! The day before Halloween I traveled from Warsaw to Torun, one of the bigger and certainly more beautiful cities there, to visit a Bulgarian friend, V. She is currently living in a small village near Bydgoszcz (yeah, I can pronounce that) with the European Volunteer Service program. I've met EVS volunteers here in Bulgaria, too, and it sounds like a pretty cool program. It's basically a shorter-term European version of the Peace Corps, but all the volunteers are under 26. She works for an adult group home for people with disabilities, and loves her job. All the volunteers live together, and come from lots of different countries, so it's an excellent opportunity to make new friends, too. We decided to meet in Torun because it's halfway between Warsaw and Bydgoszcz.

While it definitely has all the tourist kitsch necessary to make it a major holiday destination, Torun seemed a lot more relaxed and less crowded than Krakow. It has gorgeous architecture, a beautiful location on the Vistula River and a rich history. Like Gdansk, it was once part of the Hanseatic League. It was also the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus, whose house is now a museum. Another famous attraction is Torun's gingerbread (or piernik in Polish). I loved wandering around the winding back-alleys and medieval ruins of the old town while scarfing down these delicious cookies. And, appropriate for the weather at this time of year, we also drank a lot of hot beer, which gets mixed with different spices and even comes in flavors like strawberry or raspberry. Needless to say we had a pretty great time.

I had some difficulty getting back to Warsaw because when I arrived at the train station in Torun I found out that the 15:30 train listed on the departures board not only didn't run that day, but no longer existed. So much for relying on printed schedules! In future I plan to always ask someone to make sure I know where I'm going (and when). So I took a later train that included an hour-long stopover in an even smaller town called Kutno. Since it was dark already and I only saw the train station, I don't know much about the place. I do know that the main building is currently undergoing repairs, because there was nothing open and passengers had to wait on the platforms for the trains rather than inside. That would have been fine if there was any information about the platform numbers for trains to Warsaw written in plain sight. So there I was, freezing my butt off at platform number one, hoping to find someone who could help me find my train before it left without me, when I was approached by two Catholic priests. That's pretty normal in Poland but the weird thing is that they were Americans. And, ironically, they asked me if I could help them find their train! After realizing that I was just as lost as they were, one of the priests found someone who spoke English and could point me in the right direction. My train came almost immediately after that, so I had to hurry, and I have no idea where they were from or what they were doing in Poland. But I'm glad they were there and I hope that they found their train platform, too. When I got home and told my aunt this story, she was delighted, saying that it just goes to show how lucky I am (we talk about this a lot, because I get lost a lot) to have been offered help by priests. Of course. This is Poland, after all.

Women's Soccer and Alexander the Great

Since returning to Bulgaria I have done very little traveling compared with last year. And I think that's a great thing, because I am really enjoying myself here and exploring more of the city (and meeting new friends!). But I have managed to leave the country twice so far. A few weeks before I went to Poland I went on a road trip with Laura and three new friends to Macedonia. I had been to Skopje and Ohrid before, but this time we also stopped in Prilep, which is a few hours south of the capital, to watch a soccer game. Okay, so sports aren't really my thing, but I had a good time. We watched the women's national team play Italy for a European Championship League qualifying match. Much to my disappointment, Macedonia lost 0-9. It would have been nice for them to score at least one goal, but I think their players were a lot less experienced than the Italian team, who played excellently. Prilep is a small but charming town. There's a large covered market, lots of beautiful 19th-century buildings and a lovely clock tower in the center. Later we found out that it's also home to the only Thai restaurant in the country (and maybe even the region) so a return trip might be in order sometime soon.

After exploring the center we drove to Skopje where we had a very nice Italian dinner and went to a bar called Damar in the old town. It was probably the single best bar I've been to in Bulgaria or Macedonia. The interior was all exposed brick and rough wooden rafters, the drinks were cheap, there was NO SMOKING inside, and best of all, it was gay-friendly! I think it was the only bar like it in Skopje, and it's hard to think of a similar comparison in Sofia, it it exists. We chatted with some locals and stayed until closing (which was unfortunately quite early, because bars in Skopje don't stay open very late). There is also a law which restricts the sale of alcohol after 7PM in Macedonia, which is very weird. So maybe the nightlife scene in Skopje isn't all that exciting, but I think that this bar really is a unique one for this part of Europe, and I would definitely go back.

Skopje's newest tourist attraction is a giant statue of Alexander the Great, who is this small country's claim to fame (and one reason behind its problematic relationship with Greece). Macedonia wants to join the European Union, but Greece has vetoed its membership application over a name dispute. Macedonia is an historical term for a much larger region that includes parts of Albania, Greece, Serbia, Kosovo, Bulgaria and Macedonia. Because some Greeks consider the name Macedonia to be central to their own identity, the name Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia was proposed as a compromise, which the Republic Macedonia has rejected. I had read about the statue before, and how its erection was controversial within Macedonia because of the price tag (9 million euros!) and the potential for worsening relations with its southern neighbor. I'm not sure what will happen regarding the name dispute and EU accession, but the statue certainly is impressive. Surrounded by four lions and an army of soldiers, a bronze-cast Alexander the Great sits atop his horse above a large fountain. At night the statue is lit up with colored lights and music timed with the water from the fountain. It kind of reminded me of Las Vegas. There's even a fake Arc de Triomphe around the corner to add to the magnitude of the main square.

  

It was a short trip, but a lot of fun. It's not a very long drive to Skopje, so visiting for a day or two is relatively easy. And there is definitely a lot more to see in Macedonia, so I hope to return very soon.

All Saints Day in Poland

I am in Warsaw this week, visiting my aunts and cousin. I also have a couple of friends living in Poland now, so it's good to go visit and catch up with them, too. I was also here at the same time last year (the last weekend in October always includes a four-day weekend in Bulgaria so I took advantage of some extra time off to take a "fall break" from school). I can say with absolute certainty that Halloween is definitely not a big deal in this country. Besides a few displays in cafes and shops, and a couple of posters advertising parties in Warsaw, I didn't notice much going on to celebrate the holiday. Which makes sense. It isn't something which has a tradition here, unlike in the States where we spend so much time and money on costumes, trick-or-treating and decorating our homes. However, the origins of Halloween (or All Hallow's Eve) are very closely linked to an important holiday in the Polish calendar: All Saints Day, celebrated on November 1st.

This is a public holiday, and most Poles visit the cemeteries to pay their respects to deceased loved ones. I was interested in the custom, so I went with my family to Powązki Cemetery, where my great-uncle Aleksander and his first wife are buried. The first thing I noticed about this holiday is how well-organized it is. Special bus routes are added to service the cemeteries in Warsaw, and transportation workers are available to direct passengers and traffic. We went relatively early in the day, but the crowds got worse as late morning arrived. Outside of the cemetery gates were vendors selling candles, tissues, flower arrangements, wreaths, and all kinds of candy and snacks. There were television crews set up outside the main entrance (being the most famous cemetery in the city, it is the final resting place of many well-known actors, musicians, writers and politicians). It's basically the Père Lachaise of Warsaw. More recently, is became the location for a somber memorial to the victims of the April 2010 plane crash which killed nearly a hundred people, including many prominent members of the government, the president and his wife. The memorial is made from two "wings" split in the middle and flanked on either side with the graves of some of the victims of the crash. On Tuesday there were many visitors to the site, leaving candles, photos and flowers in memory of the tragedy. The aftermath of the crash has had all kinds of repercussions for the direction of Polish politics, especially in the growing rise of more radically conservative nationalism. But on this day, people came to remember the individuals who lost their lives, along with loved ones. The whole day seemed more cathartic than depressing, because so many people came to perform these rituals, and then continued on with their lives. It also pointed out one of the major contentious issues of contemporary Polish society: the role of the Catholic Church in public life. While this institutionalized "day of remembrance" serves as a (probably) necessary outlet for grief, the teleological role of religion is also narrowing the possibilities for a plurality of identity within Poland. It's clear that this is already a divisive subject, not only between religious and secular groups but within the church itself. 


This is definitely something more to ponder than just jack-o-lanterns and costumes! 

Random internet trinket: "Europe According to Bulgaria" by alphadesigner.

www.flickr.com/photos/alphadesigner/4001490673/ 

I found the photo on Brainpickings, and while the artist has a lot of other amusing takes on "European stereotypes," since he's a Bulgarian I thought this would be a good one to share. The comments on Flickr are almost as interesting as the artwork itself; some more self-critical Bulgarians added a slightly harsher slant to the typical Bulgarian outlook towards the rest of Europe (especially on the historical ties with Russia and Turkey). I like how his captions add some necessary humor to what might otherwise be negative perceptions of outsiders. Interestingly enough, his "The World According to Americans" map places Bulgaria in a corner of Southeast Europe simply labeled "Dracula," which is usually associated with Romania. So it's either a comment on how Bulgaria and Romania are almost always lumped together or the fact that most Americans probably don't know that Bulgaria exists. Which is a shame. 

Bulgarian cooking project: Mish Mash

Today I am doing lots of overdue household chores: organizing all of my papers and lesson plans from last year, putting my summer clothes away for the winter, and figuring out how to use what's in my fridge before I go on a trip next week. The last one, clearly the most fun, presented me with the opportunity to continue my Bulgarian cooking project!

Here is my recipe for "Mish-Mash," a mixture of eggs, cheese, tomatoes and peppers. It was a perfect choice because I needed to use up most of those things, anyway:
- one tomato, diced
- two small peppers (I used the green ones, smaller than your average bell pepper)
- one yellow wax pepper (smaller and spicier than the green ones)
- three eggs
- 150 grams of cirene, soft white Bulgarian cheese (Feta is an ok substitute)
- sunflower oil
- chubritsa (a Balkan spice that grows in summer, also known as "savory")

Fry the tomato and peppers with sunflower oil in a large skillet. In a bowl, whisk the eggs together with crumbled cheese. Pour this mixture over the veggies after they're cooked, and continue stirring until firm (just like scrambled eggs). Before serving, sprinkle liberally with chubritsa. An easy-to-make meal, ready in less than 20 minutes! Other recipes included onions and parsley, neither of which I had. It was still just as good without them.

* Note: I modified the recipe on the back of the "Sofia Cartoon Map." 

I found the photo here, with another variation on the same recipe.

Headed into full-on winter weather... or maybe not.

The weather here has been confusing lately. People say that it's normal for this time of year, with the changing seasons, for the temperature to change suddenly. But I don't remember it being this extreme last year. In 2010, the first time I saw snow was earlier- in fact, it was the first weekend in October- but that was also in the Troyan mountain pass, which gets snow much more frequently than other places because of the high altitude. Obviously. But this year in Sofia we had snowfall while the leaves were still green on all the trees! It was a bit of a strange sight to wake up to early on a Sunday morning:

Really? Snow in October? What's even funnier is that today it warmed up to what felt like at least 55 degrees Fahrenheit by the afternoon. Unfortunately, I dressed for the weather based on the temperature outside when I left the house (it was a brisk 34 degrees still at 9AM). This resulted in some uncomfortable hotness under my winter jacket, thermal top and knit scarf. And yes, I've learned my lesson and I'm going to layer much more strategically in the future... because just when I think I've finally gotten the hang of dressing sensibly for the weather, it goes and changes by at least 15 or 20 degrees!

The weather, combined with the fact that I spend most of my working day talking (or yelling, as need be- I'm only half kidding), means that I also need to be very cautious to avoid getting sick. A few of my friends have been experiencing flu-like symptoms and I've had a lingering sore throat for most of this week. My secret weapon for battling the cold? Lots and lots of tea. And vodka. I think I'm feeling better already.

Ukrainian Sand Art

Last night I had dinner with my neighbors, P and T, who showed me this video from the final competition on the TV show "Ukraine's Got Talent" in 2009.

I can't believe I hadn't seen it before. The visualization of the war and emotion of the faces and figures she draws are stunning. I really think that everyone should see this video!

Speaking of Ukraine, a couple of friends went there last year for spring break and it looks pretty awesome. Maybe I can find time this year to make a trip... Laura Y and I were discussing the possibility of a ferry from Varna to Odessa. It's unbelievable how close we actually are to so many other exciting destinations! 

On Education Reform

Being an English teaching assistant in Bulgaria has opened my eyes to a lot of the problems in the educational system here: underpaid teachers, a funding structure that seeks to increase the quantity of students rather than the quality of instruction, and curriculum standards that lack critical thinking skills, among many other things. A recent report (article here) published by the EU-funded Eurydice Network revealed that Bulgarian teachers' salaries are the lowest in the European Union, and the least likely to increase over the course of one's career. This is a sad statistic, and easy to point to when asked why the educational system seems so stagnant without many initiatives for reform. Most teachers I know work a second if not a third job, which leaves little time leftover to worry about how to change the bigger picture. Many of these problems could be attributed to Bulgaria's status as the poorest country in the European Union. However, any serious conversation on educational reform has to reflect on the fact that low salaries and falling standards are global phenomena, with the United States being no exception.

That being said, there are several programs and foundations addressing the challenges of American public education in the 21st century, including teacher training programs like Teach for America and after-school literacy centers like 826 Valencia in San Francisco (which also happens to be my favorite pirate-themed store). There is also a growing discourse on how to solve the problems within the public school system in the media and through local government channels. 826 co-founder and author Dave Eggers produced a documentary entitled "American Teacher" that seeks to further this discussion and stimulate a plan to attract excellent teachers and keep them with better incentives and higher salaries. It's screening this weekend in San Francisco and then going on a nation-wide tour. I really wish I could see it but I'll just have to wait for the DVD release.

I think that what these initiatives, like so many others, can teach us is that nobody has the "magical solution" to problems in public education. But with collaboration and a lot of creativity, anything is possible.

Feeling Fine

Living in Sofia is fun. I love exploring all the different neighborhoods (especially some very old and windy streets in the center) and parks (there are a lot of them, but there are probably even more malls). My social life has expanded dramatically over last year, and I'm finding myself constantly meeting friends for coffee/lunch/drinks/etc. I've met all of the American Fulbrighters living in Sofia and some new Bulgarian friends though them, as well. I have two couples in my neighborhood who I can hang out with, which is very convenient (and I always have someone around the corner if I'm feeling lonely). One of my friends took me with her to a yoga studio last week across the street from the synagogue. This was the view from the window:

Amazing, right? That column is coming up from the Moorish-influenced synagogue, the golden dome is sitting on top of a Bulgarian Orthodox church nearby, and the tall bell tower in the distance belongs to the Roman Catholic cathedral. Not visible, but very close to the synagogue, is the only functioning mosque in Sofia. All of these places of worship represent the thriving cultural mix present throughout Bulgaria's long history, even if recent events seem to obscure that. 


I think that I'm really starting to appreciate and put more thoughtful effort into my role here. I feel great working at both of my schools (I started teaching at the First English Language School, as well as at Dimcho Debelyanov) and I'm actually having fun teaching. Last week in my literature classes we discussed oral histories and folk traditions, comparing Beowulf with one of the Raven stories from the indigenous tribes of the Pacific Northwest coast. We also watched a video about the dances and songs that often tell these stories, which prompted a discussion about similar local traditions, such as fire dancing and kukeri. It was interesting for me to learn my students' perspectives on folk customs in Bulgaria and to see them make connections between the importance of memory and culture in collective identity. 


I definitely feel more organized and that I'm in a position to deepen my involvement through side projects, which are much easier to coordinate in Sofia with all of the NGOs based here. I'm helping some friends to organize a charity music festival this January for an LGBT activist group; it's exciting to meet young people who are so passionate and optimistic about making a change, especially on issues that seem so deep-rooted in ignorance and stubborn attitudes. As a friend of mine said, the NGO community here is small and not as experienced as in the United States, which leaves a lot of room for creativity and innovation. I'm looking forward to collaborating with some other organizations here on new projects, especially related to educational reform.


Now I'm off to grade these students' papers!

American Re-Runs in Bulgaria

I don't own a television set. I haven't even lived somewhere with a working television in at least two years. It's just not something I think about. Okay, I do watch television online. Back in the States I used Netflix instant for just about everything. At one point, my two roommates and I were using the same account (which actually belonged to another friend) and this resulted in the four of us accumulating close to 18 hours of TV per day. This average was probably significantly higher during finals week. Oh, college days...

My point is that because I never watch Bulgarian TV, I am usually unaware of the shows available and popular at any given moment unless I go to a friend's house, like last week when I was eating dinner with some friends and the television was switched on to the comedy channel. And I noticed something funny: the program, being shown at prime-time dinner hour, was Taxi. This was an American show that ran in the late 1970s. If you do the math, this was about ten years before I was born, so I didn't grow up with the show, however, I knew about it because it was the most famous role for the iconic late Andy Kaufman. His character was an Eastern European immigrant and car mechanic named Latka Gravas who wanted to live out the American dream. My impression is that he represented a stereotype of people from the socialist bloc that was popular in the American imagination during the Cold War years. My grandfather, who was a Polish immigrant, certainly experienced prejudice because of his background and heavily-accented English.

Here's one scene (although not the one that I watched):

The scene that really got my attention was a "flashback" from Latka's past with his mother in his fictional home country. Because American TV shows are usually dubbed in Bulgarian, this scene was the only one where I was able to understand the dialogue with English subtitles (the Gravas family were speaking in their made-up native language, dubbed over in Bulgarian). In a tearful farewell, Latka explains to his mother that he wants to go to America to live out his dreams. She worries that he won't find a woman there who can plow the fields and bear children, based on the images of thin supermodels she sees in a magazine. Of course, this plays into the same stereotype of the uncultured and agricultural lifestyles supposedly led by people under communist regimes, which begs the question: how does this really translate to a Bulgarian audience today?

Is Latka's character funny because it's vaguely nostalgic? Or is it because his aspirations to leave his home country for better opportunities in America are portrayed as naive and misguided? I would really like to know the reason why certain shows now off the air in the States, such as Taxi and Cheers, are being re-run in Bulgaria today while other comedies, namely Seinfeld, aren't. Obviously not every script can be translated well, especially when many jokes are very dated or culture-specific. But it is interesting how some of the most popular American shows that were broadcast during the socialist era are now becoming popular here. Maybe there is no reason. But it is something I think about whenever I find myself watching TV in Bulgaria, apart from the ridiculousness of reality television and Slavi's Show... 

Pro Tip: Take the Free Sofia Tour

Whether you're a long-time resident, new to the city or just passing through, you'll learn something fascinating about Sofia on this free walking tour. I've taken it twice and I can promise that while most of the highlights were the same, both guides added something different through sharing their own little tidbits of local culture. All of the tour guides are young, speak excellent English and are passionate about showing you the "real side" of Sofia that you won't find in every travel guide. As a non-profit organization, the tour operates on donations and its members also coordinate cultural events, such as a recent photographic exhibition of antique photos.

Walking tours are one of the best ways to get "more bang for your buck" and get a feel for a new place, especially if you're limited on time. I'm not, but I love learning more about this city and the best way to do that is by talking to locals. If you go on the tour, rest assured that your guide will be more than capable of suggesting further sightseeing options, a restaurant, the nearest post office, or whatever you need. They might even join you for a late lunch or a drink!

The Free Sofia Tour leaves twice daily at 11a.m. and 6p.m. in front of the Palace of Justice on Vitosha Blvd. It lasts about two hours and finishes in front of the National Assembly.

The Museum of Socialist Art

As I mentioned earlier, one of my favorite things to do here is meet new people and discover more about the city. Of course, there are a lot of things that I haven't seen here yet, one of which was the new Museum of Socialist Art. I first read about it this summer on a (new) friend's blog and have been longing to go since then. I finally got my wish on Sunday when I visited the museum with another Fulbright friend, and although it was small compared to similar ones I've been to, such as the Statue Park in Budapest, I thought it was very well presented and interesting. 

For those unfamiliar with the legacy of these objects, socialist realist art, whether in sculpture, painting or another form, were the only kind of artistic expression permitted under communism throughout the former socialist bloc. The style is characterized by larger-than-life forms portraying the values of hard work and sacrifice, or memorializing a particular leader or event. Big names at the museum include Vladimir Lenin, Che Guevara, Georgi Dimitrov and Todor Zhivkov. The red star you see here used to sit atop the so-called "Party House," or communist party headquarters in Sofia. Its current location at the museum is a major improvement from its previous one, sitting behind a chain link fence in an abandoned corner of the now-closed Sofia Bath House. Unfortunately, many of these historical artifacts were lost or destroyed during the early transition period (most people can recall scenes of joyous protesters toppling gargantuan statues of former dictators in 1989) and efforts to preserve them have been more concentrated in some places than in others. 

Of course, this park isn't the only place you'll find these statues in Bulgaria. Just walk down the main street in any town and you'll see plenty of examples which have been left to defacement and decay (which is not necessarily a bad thing, according to some). What I like about the museum is that it clearly recognizes the need to include this part of history in the overall narrative of the past. Because art in many ways speaks for itself, these statues are a quiet reminder of the symbols of that bygone era.

Another section of the museum is a "multimedia gallery" which features film footage of young pioneer parades, propaganda films, May Day celebrations and the like. It didn't have any explanations or English subtitles, for that matter, but maybe it's still a work-in-progress. The third and final gallery displays works on loan from the National Gallery, some of which were shockingly grotesque, dark and bloody. Others showed the brighter side of things, such as women carrying bouquets of flowers and cheerful soldiers returning home. There was a cafe overlooking the park which hadn't opened yet, so I plan to go back for a coffee and enjoy the unique view.


The Museum of Socialist Art (Muzei na Sotsialisticheskoto Izkustvo) is located at number 7 "Lachezar Stanchev" street, near the G.M. Dimitrov metro station.

Fulbright Events-Extravaganza!

Last week there were a crazy amount of Americans in town, most of whom I had the pleasure to meet at several big events organized by the Fulbright Commission and the American Embassy. It's definitely an advantage to live in Sofia for reasons such as networking and attending events because I don't have to travel like I did last year. It's also fun to show new people around and introduce them to some of my favorite things to do here (although I'm still getting to know the city, myself). Meeting embassy staff is always great because they have a lot of wonderful programs (like youth empowerment initiatives) and are very well-connected to donor networks. I hope to work more closely on some projects I'm learning about through the many different people I've met since arriving here; right now the options seem pretty wide open so I look forward to gaining some practical experience in non-profit organizing and grant projects.

Probably the best part of the weekend was meeting fellow English Teaching Assistants who have been teaching in several different towns across the country. I think we have all had similar experiences so far, but it is inspiring to hear about the others' challenges and perspectives on teaching. Some collaboration and group lesson planning will be made possible through the Dropbox folder we have now set up, and I think that things will be much easier with all the extra input. Teaching this year for me is far easier than last year because I have a better idea of what to expect, which makes every other aspect of living here that much more enjoyable.

Oh, and did I mention that I am surprisingly exhausted from this weekend? Maybe it's due to the fact that I went out late with friends nearly every night and then had organized activities during the day, but I think I'm just not used to being around so many people at one time. It was so exciting to meet new people but also extremely overwhelming. It's nice to have some down-time now and just catch up on house and school work. How very boring, no?

Late Summer at the Black Sea Coast

Last weekend I was lucky enough to have a four-day weekend (in celebration of Bulgaria's independence day) and decided to take the train out to Varna and visit another Fulbrighter there. Another Fulbright friend came along, too, and we met about ten of the new Fulbrighters this year who were in town, which was a pleasant surprise. This year the number of English Teaching Assistants has doubled from 10 to 20, so there are a lot more people to get acquainted with. One of the things I loved most about last year was the network of ETAs with whom I could discuss problems and minor annoyances along with positive developments and overall impressions of teaching English as a Second Language in Bulgaria. So it will be great to have an even larger network and hear some new perspectives from the different placements. I'll meet everyone officially this Friday at orientation here in Sofia.

But, getting back to the weekend, Varna was gorgeous. The weather was perfect, nice and warm with the fresh sea breeze. I got a little sunburned on the beach one day but it was worth it. I felt very relaxed just walking through the Sea Gardens and chatting over coffee with new friends. We also visited the Archaeological Museum, which was very interesting and included many of the famous golden treasures found in the ancient ruins along the sea coast. There were lots of wide, tree-lined streets, plenty of shops and cafes to keep tourists entertained, and lovely parks to take a stroll in. Varna is a beautiful city, and I definitely plan to return soon.

Eсен -Fall

Even though it's still technically summer, it definitely felt more like autumn in Sofia today. It's been overcast and drizzling all day, and the footpaths between the block buildings in my neighborhood have all become muddy with fallen leaves that get stuck to your shoes. Walking through the halls at school I was struck by the long-forgotten but familiar aroma of soggy leaves and pencil shavings that brought back (probably repressed) memories of grade school. Just kidding! But really, grade school, or high school for that matter, is not somewhere I would ever want to return to as a student. Watching students in their social interactions in the halls and in class reminds me of how much I wanted to get out of school and why it was such a relief when it was all finally over. I imagine that's the way some of my students feel now.

I just finished my first official week of classes, and I think that things are looking pretty good at my new school. My students already seem eager to speak up and want to know about schools in the United States, and it's interesting to hear their perspectives about the school because it is a very unique one in many respects.   Living in Sofia has already presented some exciting opportunities, like an embassy event I'm attending next week. There are a lot of gallery openings and film screenings in the coming weeks and several organizations I'm interested in partnering with as a side-project.

This weekend is Bulgaria's independence holiday, so we have two free days off of work. And I'm headed to the seaside to visit another Fulbrighter and hopefully soak up some sun before this nasty weather heads east!

From Where I Sit

This is the view from my apartment. No ugly socialist-era block buildings in sight, which is a rarity in this city. My neighborhood is called Zapaden Park (Western Park) and, as you can see, it is full of gorgeous trees and walking paths to enjoy. It's also connected to a much bigger park by the same name where there are fountains, bike paths, playgrounds and the like. It's not that close to the center but I do live on a metro line which makes commuting a snap.

Not much to report now, it was a pretty quiet weekend for me, not at work, meeting a few friends and catching up on TV shows and sleep. I think I might still be jet-lagged, if that's even possible. I've only been back about a week now, and there are only three working days this week because it's independence day this Thursday (four-day weekend, sweet!). Which means I've pretty much done nothing but have vacation for the last three months... but hey, I'm not complaining.

Another School Year Begins...

Today was the first official day of the school year in Bulgaria. This is a huge event, as you can tell in Sofia from the jam-packed metro cars, hordes of small children bearing flowers to give to their teachers, and later, flower-laden teachers walking home from school. There is usually an opening ceremony to welcome new students, introduce guest speakers and kick off the new year. My school is definitely one of the more unique ones in Bulgaria and because of that our speakers came from diverse backgrounds. I work at 134-то СОУ "Dimcho Debelyanov," also known as the Jewish School in Sofia, as it offers both Hebrew and English language instruction. This is one of the more elite language schools in the country, and it has a prestigious reputation. Representatives from the U.S. Embassy, the Israeli Embassy, the Bulgarian Shalom organization, the Ronald S. Lauder Foundation and the Bulgarian Ministry of Education all gave short speeches at the event. The Vice President of the Lauder Foundation told me that along with another school in Berlin, our school serves as a model for integrated multicultural education in Europe. They also have a very high-tech multimedia center with video-editing equipment, a school radio station and photography studio. Many graduating seniors go on to universities in the United States or the United Kingdom. And I am the first Fulbright ETA they have ever had. So I'm definitely feeling a bit intimidated by all that, but I'm also happy to be a part of what seems to be a very energetic and well-integrated school community. Luckily for me, I have the day off tomorrow, but Saturday is a school day due to the upcoming four-day weekend. Yeah, we have to come in on Saturdays when we miss a day of school for public holidays. But Saturday is also a special day for another reason: my name day, or imen den in Bulgarian, which is the day celebrated for people named after St. Sofia of the Orthodox church. It's sort of like having a second birthday, and I'm planning to get some friends together  and celebrate!

Bookends

Because I had a few extra days before school started, after arriving in Sofia last weekend I decided to make the trip out to Pleven and Lovech to visit some friends. Although it's been several months, I have to say that it felt like I had never even left. However, time had passed and there was a lot of catching up to do with people who I have come to feel very close to in the last year. There's my friend Dessy, who I hope comes to Sofia often to visit (as I've promised to do as well), my mentor teacher, who was a lifesaver in helping me move and transferring all my luggage back to Sofia this week, a family I absolutely adore that I met through a friend in Lovech, and my new counterpart in Pleven, who will be taking over my role as ETA at the Foreign Language School.

I also visited my "old" school the day before classes started to see my former colleagues (teachers have to report back to school two weeks beforehand). A lot of them were happily surprised to see me and told me that I definitely should come back and visit whenever I can. It was a lot more Bulgarian than I'm used to speaking right now, not having used it all summer, but a few words came back to me and luckily I had someone to translate if I needed it. Going back to school made me miss the routine I had back in Pleven, and the comfort of knowing my coworkers and having a friend to talk to at school. I also ran into a couple of students walking around town, and I forgot how nice it is to see familiar faces, which is something that will happen less often here. I know I'll be starting all over again at the new school, which makes me a little nervous. At least I know that I can always go back and it will still feel, in a way, like home.

This song is on my "back to school mix." I definitely listened to it a lot on my walks to school last year.

This Transient Life

When I was a little girl my parents had a very old globe that I would play with. If you've seen the movie Doctor Doolittle (the Rex Harrison version, not the one with Eddie Murphy) you might remember the musical scene where the cast is at sea and use a hatpin to randomly select a destination in an atlas. Apparently I was interested in travel from an early age, because I used to do the same thing by spinning the globe and stopping at a random place with my finger. I would discover new and exciting destinations and imagine what it would be like to one day visit them. On one occasion I landed on or nearby a place called Sofia. How excited I was to discover a city named after me! There is that slight spelling difference but the idea is the same. Of course I didn't know anything about Bulgaria back then, had never met anyone from Bulgaria or anyone who had traveled there. But since then I was always vaguely aware of Sofia's existence, and thought wouldn't it be cool go there when I grow up?

As of last Friday, I am a resident of the city of Sofia, with which I share a name. After two months of traveling from Pleven to Burgas to Warsaw to Seattle to San Francisco (and back!) I am definitely glad to be settling into my new home. Looking around my apartment, I have boxes and suitcases of things to unpack and I get very tired just thinking of where to put them right now. Jet-lagged or not, I am excited to finally visit my new school, meet my colleagues and students, and start off another year of my Fulbright grant. I already feel very good about it, and incredibly lucky to be here. I want to thank you for reading and promise to update often about things, now that I am going to be in one place (hopefully) for a while.

And to everyone starting a new school year, good luck and best wishes!

California Wine Tour

In the two weeks I've spent back in the City by the Bay I have caught up with many of my wonderful friends and gotten to relive fond memories from the four years I lived here. I have also come to realize just how much San Francisco truly feels like home to me, and that returning one day (hopefully soon!) is definitely on my priority list for the future. Many of the things I love about this city involve food and/or drinking: Mission burritos, tapas and sangria, sushi, the most delicious coffee in the world, Ghiradelli chocolate, local beers such as Lagunitas and Anchor Steam, burgers, going out for brunch, mimosas, great cocktails and, of course, the close proximity to one of the most famous wine-producing regions in the world. Until this past weekend I had never ventured up to Napa Valley for the full wine-tasting experience, but a little internet research revealed a bike shop in Calistoga that organizes biking tours for the adventurous wino. With some luck I was able to get this amazing group of people together and we drove up for the day to check it out.

While the biking itself wasn't very difficult, I have to say that after several glasses of wine and being out in the hot sun all day, I was exhausted after this day trip. We arrived around noon and left at six, having visited four wineries. Labor Day weekend is a busy one in wine country, so we were lucky to find room at some of these places that tend to get packed with tourists. My favorite one was a small vineyard owned by an Italian family who had brought over traditional methods of wine production from the old country. It was interesting to learn something about the process and then to taste the results! 

  

All in all it was a perfect, relaxing way to spend the holiday weekend and I couldn't have asked for a better group of friends to share it with. It's been so great to see everyone and catch up about the past year. I even had a special visit from my friend Jolie who flew all the way from New Orleans the first weekend I arrived. I miss everyone and it's hard to say goodbye, especially when I'm not sure when I'll be coming back, but I know that this is the perfect time in our lives to take some risks and just enjoy while we can the opportunities that come our way. I leave for Bulgaria the day after tomorrow for another year of teaching and I am looking forward to getting settled in my new city! 

Farewell, Seattle!

Well, my month-long stay in Seattle is almost at an end. The time really flew by (doesn't it always?) but I'm feeling alright about how much socializing I managed to fit in. Having spent my college years about 800 miles away from home, my family has gotten used to me being gone most of the time. On this trip I tried to visit as many relatives and friends as possible in my limited time, and I covered most of those bases. However, there's always something else that could have been done and I inevitably end up feeling like I forgot someone or something. But I just have to let these things go, as I can't do everything and this is supposed to be my summer vacation! I really appreciated being able to see my grandparents. I feel very lucky to have them. I also made a new friend, a one-year old puppy named Thor who I took on walks a few times a week.

He's huge and extremely cute, which made him very popular on the Burke-Gilman trail. I missed dogs and it was fun to go outside and enjoy the sunshine with a bouncy new puppy. I also spent some quality time with my friends from high school and college who live in the area. We've all grown into such different people, which is weird when you start thinking about the future and how everyone will end up. I don't think anyone has got it "all figured out" just yet, which is great because neither do I! I've noticed a lot of changes around the city since last year, mainly with new buildings and businesses opening everywhere. It looks like Seattle is experiencing a bit of growth right now, which is a good thing in this economy. The weather could have been better (it was unseasonably cold this summer- July is usually perfect but there were precious few sunny days). It has been improving recently, of course, in my last week here. Tonight I'll be celebrating with some friends on Capitol Hill at an impromptu bon voyage party. And next Wednesday I'm flying down to sunny San Francisco, California (my other home) to spend a couple of weeks exploring my old haunts with my amazing friends. After that, it's back to Sofia to kick off another school year! 

Small talk

I went to my favorite grocery store a few days ago and was overwhelmed at all of the things I could buy, especially things that were hard to find in Bulgaria, such as hummus, granola, energy bars, guacamole, tortillas, bagels, unsalted chunky peanut butter... the list goes on. I didn't even look at the frozen foods section- I'll leave that for another day. And when I got to the checkout, the cashier was very, very friendly (no surprise there, but it took me a little while to respond to his cheerfulness). I'm so used to going to the grocery store, picking out what I need without thinking too hard about what's available, then paying for my items without so much as a head nod from the salesperson. Of course, the smaller "Mom and Pop" stores in Bulgaria are a different story; I had my regular places in Pleven where I was familiar with the staff and would occasionally have simple conversations in my (extremely limited) Bulgarian. But the feeling just isn't the same when it's not a language you feel comfortable with- I can't make a joke about the ridiculous weather we've been having or the fact that yes, I am purchasing two bottles of wine and no, I'm not going to a dinner party. Maybe I shouldn't make silly jokes anyway, but it lightens up the routine and reminds you that the other person also might be having a crappy day, or has a good sense of humor. Maybe it's a habit from working in customer service for so many years, and I know it's definitely a product of our culture of consumerism, but I have to admit that I enjoy the chit-chat that comes with good customer service. And it isn't nonexistent in Bulgaria, it's just an imported concept so you don't find it everywhere. Especially when you don't understand the language! So here's to friendly cashiers, Trader Joe's and two-buck Chuck. Nazdrave. 

Cool Summer in the Pacific Northwest

I love summertime in Seattle. The weather, which is awful for most of the year, gets very pleasant and sunny and it's never too hot. Usually by the end of July we're enjoying the warm, dry weather with the occasional cool breeze off of Puget Sound. But this year there haven't been more than a handful of days over 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 Celsius). Across the United States this month, nearly every state has been experiencing a record-breaking heat wave. But not here. It rained the first few days I was home, which was disheartening, but there have been a few promising sunbreaks in the cloudy skies to give me hope that things may improve. 

One good thing about milder summer weather is that you can go hiking in the middle of the day without much difficulty. And that's exactly what I did with my Dad and brother this weekend. We drove out to a random trailhead off of the interstate and took the first marked path we saw. It was a more strenuous hike than we were expecting up to the peak of the hill, and the view was quite underwhelming (it was actually a power station) but we still had a good time. Hiking in the woods is something that reminds me of my childhood and the countless summers I spent either away at camp, sleeping in a tent or working on a volunteer trail maintenance crew. I love the smell of the pine trees, being able to identify plants (I used to remember more of them!) and the calm that comes from being outside of the congested city. The Northwest is one of the best places in the US to find trails and other outdoor activities right outside your doorstep. Although I've chosen to spend the last several years away from here (and have no plans to move back permanently) it does feel good to come back and appreciate this beautiful place. Best of all, I get to spend lots of time with my wonderful family and friends who make it so hard to stay away. 

Here's me and my brother, sweating on our two-hour hike. 

Polish breakfasts will be the end of me…

This was my sixth trip to Poland in the last five years, which sounds like a lot! I definitely feel a lot more familiar now there and I am trying to make a plan to find work or study for a couple of years in Warsaw. Having family there helps a lot, and I’ve slowly been learning a little bit of Polish. Apparently, my pronunciation is good- my aunt keeps telling me I have a natural ear for the language. I’m not so sure, but I can read with relative accuracy, count to ten, and I know the names for every meal (very important). My aunt always prepares a lot of delicious food when I visit, and it’s hard to turn down, but I worry about all the pork, potatoes and sweets that are the staples of my diet here. Luckily their apartment is right by Lazienki Park, the biggest one in the city and a beautiful place to go jogging.   

When my cousin Andrzej found out I would be visiting for a longer time he started planning a trip for us to the Baltic coast, which was great because I’d wanted to see Gdansk for years. We took the long train ride to the sea and spent two nights there, also visiting the seaside resort town of Sopot. Gdansk (Danzig in German) has a very interesting history, as it functioned as an independent city up until the Second World War. The architecture is striking, and reminded me of both Amsterdam and Prague. Its position on the Baltic Sea made it into an important center for trade and shipbuilding, and before the war the majority of its residents were German-speaking merchants. On September 1, 1939 Nazi Germany invaded Poland, an event which officially started the war. The first shots were fired at Westerplatte, the Polish naval base next to Gdansk. On a ferry trip to Sopot we passed by the memorial dedicated to the lives lost that day which stands on the small peninsula there. Gdansk was also where the Solidarity labor movement was born in the 1980s at the Lenin Shipyards. Solidarity leaders organized a mass strike there against the totalitarian government and formed the first independent labor union in the Soviet bloc. It was instrumental in the downfall of the communist system; one leader, Lech Walesa, became Poland’s first democratically elected president in over fifty years in 1990. Today you can visit the shipyards (which have been renamed) on a tour to learn more about their history and role in the Polish economy and political consciousness. Unfortunately, the English interpreter on our tour didn’t translate everything the guide said, so you’re better off if you speak Polish. There is another exhibition located outside the shipyards called “Roads to Freedom,” which is more of a museum to life under communism and martial law in Poland. Because the Solidarity movement was the subject of a major paper for me in college, it was very satisfying to see these places in real life.

The rest of the trip was spent lazing about by the Baltic Sea, drinking Polish beer and sampling delicacies such as pickled herring with cream and white kielbasa. We also met a German man at our bed-and-breakfast who was on a cycling trip across Poland, and had some very interesting conversations with him (imagine a Pole, a German and an American discussing the legacy of WWII or the future of social welfare in Europe and the United States).  I also appreciated having more time to talk with my cousin over the course of the trip, and I’m sure that we know each other much better having spent a few days together. I feel very lucky to have my family here, and to have had so many opportunities to see them over the years. As I learn more about my grandparents’ life during and after the war I am increasingly aware of all the risks they took, and I wonder at all the ways things could have turned out differently for them (and, by extension, me). And learning more about my family here makes me proud to be a part of their life and very happy to have them in mine.

As I pack up to leave Poland (I know it won’t be the last time) I can’t believe how much has happened this year. The first day I arrived in Sofia seems like such a long time ago but it was less than a year before now. Adjusting to life on my own wasn’t always easy, but it was a very rewarding experience and I feel that I’ve grown a lot personally. I’m looking forward to going home, seeing my family and friends, and catching up on all that I’ve missed since I’ve been away. And hopefully new adventures await me next year!